Looking for a bench for the end of your bed? Make one! In this post, we’ll show you exactly how we created this timeless DIY bench.
Alright, let’s dive in and start DIYing!
How to Build a Bench for the End of a Bed
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Recommended Tools:
- Circular Saw
- Miter Saw
- Kreg Jig (not sure which to get? Check out which Kreg Jig to get)
- Drill
- Jigsaw
- Staple Gun
- PowerSnips or something to cut foam/fabric
- Clamps
- Measuring Tape (new to DIY? Be sure to check out this post with measuring tips)
- Safety Equipment
Shopping List:
- (1) ¾”x2x4 plywood project panel
- (1) ½”x2x4 plywood project panel
- (1) 2x2x4
- (2) 1x2x8s
- (1) 8ft 3/4″ shelf edge (unfortunately Lowe’s keeps changing the name of this and breaking the link. The trim we used is the only trim that is next to the 1x2s, not the other trim. It’s only available in oak and poplar)
- Titebond Clear Glue
- Spray paint – I used the 2025 Krylon Color of the Year: Hammered Black
- Fabric for the cushion
- Spray adhesive
- Batting
- 2” thick upholstery foam
- Wood glue (this is our favorite type and it’s great for outdoor projects)
- Wood filler (we use this one, but be sure to check out our wood filler experiment to decide which might be best for your project)
- Sandpaper
- Painter’s Tape
- 3/8” staples
- 1 ¼” pocket hole screws
We built our bench entirely out of scrap wood (yes, even the trim was leftover from past projects), so ignore the mismatching wood prior to the paint!
Dimensions
The final dimensions of the bench (without the cushion) are 42” wide x 18” deep x 17” tall.
STEP 1: MAKE YOUR CUTS
First cut your ¾” plywood down to 42 x 18”. Mark 1” squares in each corner and cut them out with a jigsaw.
Then cut your ¼” plywood to 39 x 15”.
Cut (4) 2x2s down to 10 1/4” tall. We also tapered them on two sides using our DIY taper leg jig for the miter saw. The taper went about 6” up and we set the saw to a 3-degree angle. The goal was for the bottom of the leg to be about 3/4” wide.
Next cut your stretchers. You’ll need (2) 1x2s cut to 35 1/4” and (4) 1x2s cut to 11 1/4”.
STEP 2: ADD TRIM DETAIL TO THE LEGS
Be sure to set up your miter saw for small cuts if you are planning to use that to cut your trim. We kept our miter saw at the same 45-degree angle and just adjusted what side we cut from to get the mirrored angles.
Since the pieces are so small, it’s not safe to trim them if they are too short. We cut a few extras so that we had some choices on the exact lengths.
You’ll use 16 pieces with the short side being ~1.5” long. The exact length will depend on the actual sizing of your 2x2s. Though they should be 1.5” wide, they aren’t always.
We placed the trim so that the bottom of the trim sat just where the taper of the leg began. To attach, we used Titebond glue that dries clear and some painter’s tape as a clamp. Super glue would probably work as well if you don’t want to deal with the tape!
STEP 3: DRILL POCKET HOLES
Using the ¾” settings, drill pocket holes in the following boards:
- (2) on either end of all of your 1x2s
- (2) along the length of your short stretchers
- (3) along the length of your long stretchers.
Yes, the pocket holes you add to the length of your stretchers will hang off the board, but it won’t affect the structural integrity of the pocket holes and they won’t be visible when looking at your bench unless you are laying on the floor underneath it. These pocket holes will attach the base of the bench to the top.
STEP 4: ASSEMBLE THE BASE
Using glue and 1 ¼” pocket hole screws, secure the stretchers between the legs. We lined the stretchers up so that they were flush with the inside of each of the legs. You’ll also want to make sure that your pocket holes are all facing in towards the middle of the bench and that the pocket holes that will be used to secure the top are positioned on the correct side.
For the middle stretchers, you can equally space them between the outside stretchers. The placement doesn’t need to be exact.
Note: we didn’t add the two middle stretchers for extra support, so you won’t see them in our photos. We do recommend it though for a stronger bench!
STEP 5: SECURE THE BASE TO THE TOP
Center the base on the top. The legs will be 1 ⅞” from the sides of the top. Using glue and 1 ¼” pocket hole screws, secure the base to the top.
STEP 6: STAIN OR PAINT
We prepped our bench by caulking where the trim meets the bench legs, and adding a thin coat of spackle to the plywood edge like we did in this DIY rotating bookcase build.
We gave everything a quick sand with 220 grit sandpaper and then spray painted the base with Krylon Hammered Black spray paint, which is the 2025 Krylon Color of the Year!
If you opted to stain your bench instead of painting it, you’ll likely want to apply some edge banding around the top to make it look like a solid piece of wood.
STEP 7: MAKE THE CUSHION
I say this every time I make a project that involves upholstery like our DIY hanging headboard and our DIY entryway bench with storage: I am certainly not an upholstery expert. I’m happy to share what I do to make the cushion, but there are probably better methods out there.
First, we used spray glue to secure some 2” foam to the ¼” plywood. Then, I stapled on some batting to soften the corners of the foam. Finally, I stapled the fabric to the plywood.
For the corners, I pinched the fabric to make it as smooth of a corner as possible rather than folding the fabric.
We cut off the excess fabric and then just set the cushion right on top of the bench, but you could also glue it down to secure it as well.
There you have it! Now you know how to build a bench for the end of the bed! This would also be a great entryway bench as well! The cushion makes it a comfortable spot to remove your shoes.
