Ready to build magazine-worthy furniture you love, without breaking your budget? Here are the tools you’ll need to build all the furniture in I Made That.
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We’ll have the same list twice. The first list will just be a quick list with the links of the models that we use. Some of our tools have been discontinued, so the links are the next closest model.
The second list will have a few more notes on what you might want to consider when looking for specific items.
Required Tools
Workshop Essentials
- Drill Bit Set
- Speed square
- Measuring Tape
- Clamps (12, 18, and 24″)
- Silicon Brush or Glue Kit for spreading glue
- Sanding discs (60, 80, 120, 180, and 220 grit)
- Tack Cloth
- Rags
- Foam Brushes
- Safety equipment including:
- Safety glasses
- Earplugs or headphones
- Masks
- Closed-toed shoes
Optional, but highly recommended:
*The saw blades that come in miter saws are generally used for fast, rough-construction cuts. Since we are making finer cuts to build furniture, it’s recommend to upgrade your blade to avoid have splinters on the ends of your boards. That being said, we built plenty of pieces with the standard blade before upgrading. If you do get a new blade, make sure to get the blade that matches your miter saw size.
A Little More Explanation
Corded vs. Cordless
We opt for the corded option for any saws or sanders. Cutting and sanding require a lot of energy from the tools, so we’d rather plug it in, get full power, and not worry about constantly charging the battery.
We prefer the cordless option for tools like drills and nail guns that you’ll be using all around the house.
Pro tip: always have two batteries: one should be one the charger and one should be on the tool. That way you always have a charged battery ready to go.
DRILL
Budget-friendly option: https://bit.ly/2CzWUQJ
What we use: https://bit.ly/3ay6nVl
MITER SAW
When choosing a miter saw, make sure you get a compound miter saw. This will allow you to make all the straight and angled cuts you’ll need.
You might notice some saws mention “dual” or “double bevel” in the name. This means that you can tilt your saw to either side. Personally, I don’t think it’s a necessity, especially for the added cost.
If you’re willing to spend a bit more money, you can also get a miter saw with the sliding option. This will allow you to cut through wider boards.
Budget-friendly option: https://bit.ly/3az3kw8
Note: this option is a 10″ miter saw, which means you won’t be able to cut all the way through a 1×8, which we will be using in the course. I will show you how to cut a wider board than your miter saw can cut, but it’s not the most accurate process.
Budget-friendly option vs. 2: https://bit.ly/2EmXpOV
This one is also 10″, but since it is sliding, you are able to cut through wider boards than even a 12″ saw.
What we use: https://bit.ly/2E8swNG
ELECTRIC SANDER
There are a handful of different electric sanders including orbital, random orbital, palm, and detail sanders.
I’d recommend getting a random orbital sander for the best finish. A random orbital pattern moves in a “random” pattern, which means you don’t have to worry about sanding against the grain. It also removes more wood than an orbital sander which means you can get smoother finish even if your boards aren’t perfectly flush to begin with.
The main disadvantage of the random orbital sander is that the round shape makes it pretty difficult/impossible to get in corners. Because of this, I usually follow-up on those areas using a sanding block after sanding the majority of my piece by hand.
Budget-friendly option: https://www.harborfreight.com/28-Amp-5-in-Random-Orbital-Palm-Sander-63999.html
What we use: https://bit.ly/326d1OO
POCKET HOLE JIG
This is going to be your #1 secret weapon to building impressive furniture. There are a lot of different models available, but in the course we’ll be showing you how to use the Kreg 310, the Kreg K4, and the Kreg 720.
Budget-friendly option: Kreg 310
CLAMPS
You can never have too many clamps. Say it with me: “you can never have too many clamps.”
Clamps are a DIYers best friend. They are your second (and third) set of hands and can help straighten out warped boards and minimize gaps. You’ll use them on pretty much every project. Having a variety of different sizes is also helpful.
For the projects in this course, here is the bare minimum I’d recommend:
- (1-2) 24″
- (2-4) 12-18″
The more clamps you have, the more you’re going to be able to line up boards and work on multiple things at once. I prefer the Irwin Quick-Grip line of clamps because they are so easy to use.
If you want something heavy-duty, Jorgensen clamps are also a great choice. They’re a little more complicated to use, but they can apply a lot of pressure to the wood to fix larger mistakes or warped boards.
If you aren’t sure which to get, I’d go ahead and purchase the Irwin Quick-Grip.
What we use: Irwin Quick-Grip
What we use: Jorgensen
